Handwoven Pure Silk Dupatta ⚹ K

Handwoven Pure Silk Dupatta ⚹ K

The tribal belt of MP and Chhattisgarh is known for its scenic beauty much as its crafts. The region holds a long history of handloom in itself. The style originally belongs to the Marātha and Telugu castes of weavers of silk and fine cotton cloth. The area is known for its weaving in very fine counts - 80s to 120s. Amongst the merchants, the saris are known as ‘solah haath ki saadi’ or sari measuring 16 hands and Lugda.

The Koshtis suppose themselves to be descendents of Mārkandi Rishi, who first wove cloth from the fibers of lotus flower to cover the nakedness of the gods. Stories say that in reward for this he was married to the daughter of Sūrya, the sun god and received a giant named Bhavāni and a tiger as dowry. But the giant was disobedient and so Mārkandi killed him and from his bones fashioned the first weaver’s loom. The tiger remained obedient to Mārkandi and the Koshtis think that he still respects them as his descendants; so that if a Koshti should meet a tiger in the forest and say the name of Mārkandi, the tiger will pass by and not molest him; and they say that no Koshti has ever been killed by a tiger. On their side they will not kill or injure a tiger, and at their weddings the Bhāt or genealogist brings a picture of a tiger attached to his sacred scroll, known as Padgia, and the Koshtis worship the picture. 

The saris earlier used to be only made of cotton woven into heavy, flannel-like fabric. The weavers have now moved to silk and cotton-silk too. The woven cloth is made into saris, stoles, suit pieces, accessories and home furnishings. In recent times weavers also weave Chanderi and Maheshwari fabric in their looms owing to great demand of the saris… Tussar culture also provides high employment for both tribal and rural populations. Therefore, sericulture holds great importance in forestry as an added activity. Traditionally spinning and subsidiary activities are carried out by women and weaving is done by the men. 

Weaving in this region is known to be happening for over 200 years. Raja Raghuji Bhonsle had taken over the Balaghat region during 1900 AD and the craft flourished under his patronage. Earlier the weavers used to make thin dhotis and Lugda only and used to sell it in the open markets.  The weavers used to use 10s - 100s counts of cotton for weaving. From around 1920, they started weaving in only 10s and 20s. Heavy Maharashtrian influences are seen due to its proximity to the state. Initially, only cotton was woven extensively. As the demand and sale for the cotton fabrics reduced, the weavers started working on silk. From 700 looms, it has diminished to 70-80 looms. 

These saris have always been measured with the easiest tool available, the Hand. Making the measuring unit to be a finger or a hand, the borders or designs were called Ek ungal or one finger, Do ungal or two fingers, Teen ungal or three fingers, Char ungal or four fingers, Paanch ungal or five fingers, Ek bhitha or one hand span, Ek haath or one arm length from elbow to fingertips.

There were a variety of body colors form deep maroons, haldi yellow to blue-black. The colors used in these saris are named interestingly; Purple - Baingani (Brinjal), Pink - Gulabi (Rose), Red-Brown - Eent (Brick), Pyaazi (Onion) etc. Others are Firozi, Mehndi (henna), Chutney (leafy green), Aasmaani (sky) etc.

The borders and the body of the sari also have specific names. Nakshikinar is a flowering wine border. The sari is referred to as Selari if the body is striped, if it has variegated stripes, it is called Bhaga. A sari with a 4X4 check pattern is called Moongia. A sari with 2 X2 checks made using a two shuttle technique is called a Mukhtiya. When the sari has two shades - a lighter and darker one it is known as Dhoop - Chaon. Warp border motifs are known after flowers - Ruiphool, Jai phool, Karvati or double Karvati (saw-faced motifs), Shahpuri or Gom (arrow-head pattern).